Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation are dark spots that appear after an inflammatory reaction at the site of a wound, burn, irritation or after acne and pimples. During the inflammatory process and during the healing of the skin, a lot of the dark pigment melanin is produced, which leads to discoloration in the damaged area and the formation of a blemish.

The most common causes

Sun exposure – Excessive exposure to the sun’s UV rays can lead to excessive production of melanin and the appearance of dark spots and freckles. The occurrence of sunburn greatly increases the risk of hyperpigmentation.

Inflammatory skin conditions – Inflammation associated with conditions such as acne, eczema or psoriasis encourages melanocytes (melanin-producing cells) to produce more pigment.

Injuries – After the wound or cut has healed, scarring and hyperpigmentation may occur in the area.

Can it be prevented?

Prevention of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation involves effective management of inflammation and protection of the skin from further damage.

Sun protection – Exposure to UV radiation can worsen hyperpigmentation. It is crucial to use a cream with a protective factor daily, and during summer days and a high UV index, it is best to use factor 50.

Gentle skin care routine – Aggressive products and excessive exfoliation should be avoided. During the inflammatory process, it is best to use gentle cleansers and moisturizing creams, and after the skin has calmed down, introduce moderate use of chemical exfoliants and peels.

Timely treatment of inflammatory conditions – Acne, eczema and other inflammatory conditions need to be treated as early as possible to reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation.

Avoiding popping pimples – Squeezing pimples as well as picking at wounds worsens the already damaged condition of the skin, leads to more severe inflammation and the appearance of hyperpigmentation.

How to treat?

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation spots can often fade on their own, but it takes a long time (6-12 months). There are many active ingredients that can speed up this process and lead to more even skin. Some of them are:

Vitamin C

L-ascorbic acid, better known as vitamin C, acts as a powerful antioxidant. It helps to reduce visible scars and spots and contributes to an even complexion.

AHA and BHA acids

AHA or alpha-hydroxy acids include acids such as glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid. They can be found in many products for treating acne and hyperpigmentation.

BHAs are beta-hydroxy acids, and salicylic acid is the best known among them. Salicylic acid acts as a keratolytic, removes dead skin cells and cleans pores. In this way, it can speed up the process of fading dark spots.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide or vitamin B3 is essential for biochemical reactions in cells because it acts as a precursor to cofactors NAD and NADP. It has an anti-inflammatory effect, works to reduce wrinkles and, by acting on the transfer of melanosomes (organelles containing melanin) to keratinocytes, effectively reduces hyperpigmentation.

Azelaic acid

This dicarboxylic acid has proven to be effective in the treatment of acne and comedones as well as hyperpigmentation. It has anti-inflammatory and keratolytic effects, and by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, it reduces melanin production.

Retinoids

Retinoids represent vitamin A and its derivatives. In addition to being widespread and popular in anti-aging treatments, by penetrating deep into the skin, they work to even out skin tone and texture.

Slowly and surely to the result

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation does not go away overnight. The use of products with the listed active ingredients will promote and accelerate the whitening of blemishes, but patience is required. The aforementioned active ingredients have many benefits, but they must be used in moderation. Excessive use and failure to follow the instructions on the product can do more harm than good. Furthermore, it is important to introduce a cream with SPF into your daily routine throughout the year and especially during the summer months for the prevention, but also for the faster fading of hyperpigmentation spots.

 

Translated by: Nina Šlopar

 

References

1. Sangha AM. Managing Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Patients with Acne. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2021;14(6 Suppl 1):S24-S26.

2. What to know about hyperpigmentation acne, 2020., https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/, accessed on 27. 6. 2024.

3. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation and Acne, 2024., https://www.verywellhealth.com/, accessed on 27. 6. 2024.

4. Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation Treatment & Management, 2023., https://reference.medscape.com/, accessed on 27. 6. 2024.

5. Understanding the difference between AHA and BHA for skin care, 2021., https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/, accessed on 27. 6. 2024.

6. Niacinamide: A Multi-functional Cosmeceutical Ingredient, 2022. https://practicaldermatology.com/, accessed on 27. 6. 2024.

7. Azelaic acid, 2022., https://dermnetnz.org/, accessed on 27. 6. 2024.

8. Marques, C et al. Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products. Antioxidants. 2024., 13, 425.

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